Monday, 30 April 2012
It's not GD may yet?!
I swear that last post originally had paragraphs.
I'm sorry.
Fun fact: I hate this new layout!
Vietnam, bring your Dong!
Almost had a Coco hiatus there! And in the spirit of our St. Coco I decided a blog was not worthy unless under the influence of several Mario Lopez's. But out here, vodka mirinda will have to do. Have you ever had a mirinda? It's like liquid orange tic tacs, absolute shit.
It's on in Vietnam! And of course, I love it. Spent the first couple days in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) which was a lovely reminder of Vancouver. Massive sky scrappers, enough neon lights to give you a seizure, and hands down the craziest streets I've ever managed to cross in my life. You are basically a deer in the headlights as moto's, cars, buses, etc fly past you. So terrifying, and exhilarating. you are the stone, they are the water is what it's really like.
I scoured the city and made it to the reunification palace, where Saigon surrendered to the North as their tanks crashed through, their version of Notre Dame, and Regina cafe for a macchiato. Had to go, obvi. Plus they give back to those who farm their coffee beans. I'll fun fact you right now. Coffee is grown within 1000 miles of the equator. Neat!
The rest of the time was spent on the back of a moto, exploring the countryside, monkeys, and crocodile farm containing the biggest croc I've ever seen in my life, you could stick a clock in it's mouth and it would be a prop from Hook. When it became Saigon by night, it was a totally different story. Walking down Bui Vien, the streets were lined with backpackers slugging back ice cold 10,000 Dong beer served by stern mom like Vietnamese women. Too much fun to handle, so I slammed a few Gin and tonics and headed to the beach.
Lucky me, I arrived at roughly three in the morning. Note: this is not Thailand. Everything was shut down. Luckily for me I see a man waving as I head a few blocks up, from a place called friendly guesthouse. Yes it was and yes I will take it...for one night. I have expressed my gratitude by going there for breaky every day. Hands down, the grandma there makes the best coconut cake (tart) I've ever had. Wow. So I've settled into a slightly out of budget guesthouse but I am spoiled with amenities, especially in room wifi and so happy.
First day back on the beach I burnt to a crisp. Never been better. So today I headed out to the sand dunes for a little bit of sun before retreating back to my aircon room to read too much on the Internet. Apparently I'm addicted to carbs. Crack is the second most popular choice when typing it in to a search engine... Dodged a bullet!
At the dunes you can rent a piece of plastic, or as we call it in Canada, a crazy carpet and go for a ride down the dunes. It works surprisingly well but sand is a hell of a lot harder to climb then snow, so I gave up after three go's but enjoyed watching tiny Asian men in business attire scream like girls down the hill.
It was a nice little out of the town trip and tomorrow I'm off to Nha Trang to soak up more sun, and possible have a fun filled day at a water park...if I can find someone to play with. Otherwise, countdown to Rook (Christopher) coming, is on!
Monday, 23 April 2012
If nothing else...
http://edition.cnn.com/2012/03/15/world/cnnheroes-basnet-nepal-prisons/index.html?hpt=wo_bn6
Fun fact: PLEASE check this out
Saturday, 21 April 2012
My Engrish not so gud
I've just been informed it's getting worse with time. Bare with me please, you know what I'm saying. I tried to edit some blogs but since they've reformatted the site again I have no clue how to do it. My big sorry's, especially to dad, that this ex Harvard hopeful is loosing her touch.
Fun fact: suck it up, it adds flavor to the blog
Friday, 20 April 2012
Zombie apocalypse starts now!
Newest point of interest on my resumè, I am a certified expert bus rider. Even if I don't notice what seat I'm supposed to be in I end up in the right one. What I do notice is people look like zombies when they sleep on the bus. Think of it this way. Your neck never connects with the back of the seat when you are in the upright position and your head is always cocked to one side and odds are your mouth is open and your is head bobbling about. If you are me you are also drooling, scary sight. Check it out next time you ride a bus.
Fun fact: everyone is lying to you!
Fun fact: everyone is lying to you!
The alley wins again!
Currently in Stung Treng for a day before making the trek to HCMC, Vietnam. Virtually no tourists come here, only to go to the Laos boarder, so I am loving it. The other nice thing about see less explored towns is that moto's and tuk tuk's are rarely an annoyance. But I hit the jackpot. A calm, friendly faced man came up to me and asked what I was up to. Not pulling me this way or that, yelling that I should stay here and go there and do this. He simply said, I have a guesthouse, $3 a night by the gas station if you like. Yes, yes I do.
Of course it's down an alley, I would have never found it without him, away from the main craziness and it's lovely! Two other families live here and it's a nice little compound. I don't even have to leave to eat because one of the women of the families is on it. She asked what I would like for breakfast in the morning and I kid you not the second I stepped out of my room it was ready and on the table for me! What are these acts of kindness? also got to share some with her little boy who wanted my breakfast and not his. Très cute!
Fun fact: if all else fails, ask a monk or take an alley.
Of course it's down an alley, I would have never found it without him, away from the main craziness and it's lovely! Two other families live here and it's a nice little compound. I don't even have to leave to eat because one of the women of the families is on it. She asked what I would like for breakfast in the morning and I kid you not the second I stepped out of my room it was ready and on the table for me! What are these acts of kindness? also got to share some with her little boy who wanted my breakfast and not his. Très cute!
Fun fact: if all else fails, ask a monk or take an alley.
Koh Trung
Decided to spend a day on the island just a short distance from Kratie. I had it all planned out. I was renting a bike, planting a tree, doing a home stay, going to the temple and floating village... I even had a map. Well let's just say this day ended up very happy...found that party.
I'm maybe a quarter into my biking trek and I can hear music blaring and see people dancing around in the distance, fantastic! I finally get to see some people celebrating the New Year! Do I ever, they see me coming up on my bike and right before my eyes someone races over to a bamboo oath, pulls a string and a bamboo roadblock is dropped. I almost fall off my bike laughing as the people approach me dancing and smiling and singing and of course drunk. I'm being pulled off the bike and the women are leading me around in traditional Khmer dance while the men insist I chug Black Panther (a dark 8% beer that's gets you right) and everyone is hollering and being so ridiculous. I manage a few dances before I have to get out of there. When you can't speak to each other and that moment of unclarity comes nothing could be more awkward. So I'm off!
I'm barely biking two more minutes and I hear "happy Khmer New Year!" and all these guys just hanging out eating and drinking shots of rice wine are just beckoning for me to come over. Option A) finish my island tour and be a lame ass never knowing what it's all about. Or Option B) show them how it's done. Clearly I go with the later. So there I am sitting with a bunch of dudes, only one speaks English but is more than happy to translate for everyone, and the songs are starting and the rice wine is just flowing non stop. I think I impressed them.
I finally got to partake in the tradition of the New Year that I've been dying for and that's the Talcum powder all over the face and hair and arms, you name it. Since they all wanted a go at me, let's just say I don't have to baby powder my hair for a least a month after this fiasco, oh it burns! But it keeps everyone in good spirits as I offer to get us more wine and the English speaking gentleman literally has to be carried into bed. Out of control! So I'm sitting around with the younger boys now, about my age, broken English, everyone is drunk...my kind of scene...and I'm stopped dead.
They had been eating BBQ all afternoon, and as good as it looked I'm so thankful I'm a vegetarian. I managed to have a nonstop supply of mango when I looked to my left, on the grill I saw (mom close your eyes) a dog head! I didn't know what to do, I was literally paralyzed by fright. I mean this dog was cute, like wishbone, and there was his head charred to all hell with it's tail in it's mouth. I kid you not they took that and ate it too, then I'm sure they did some weird offering with the head. Ugh. I'm sorry, but I had to let it out. I didn't know whether to run, or cry, or Kris Morrow (throw up) all over the place. Single handily (that is officially the funniest word ever, handily.) the worst experience of my life and I've had KFC for Christmas. I'm still not recovering from either, why did you change your macaroni salad recipe? Why?
Shortly after that I managed to bike my sorry ass back to the start line to walk three Km in the dark to the home stay. At least that was a great experience overall. They were very accommodating to my vegetarian needs and I got a nice piece of floor to crash on for a couple hours before the damn roosters starting going off like they'd never seen the sun before. All in the name of supporting a community!
Fun Fact: rice wine will end your life
I'm maybe a quarter into my biking trek and I can hear music blaring and see people dancing around in the distance, fantastic! I finally get to see some people celebrating the New Year! Do I ever, they see me coming up on my bike and right before my eyes someone races over to a bamboo oath, pulls a string and a bamboo roadblock is dropped. I almost fall off my bike laughing as the people approach me dancing and smiling and singing and of course drunk. I'm being pulled off the bike and the women are leading me around in traditional Khmer dance while the men insist I chug Black Panther (a dark 8% beer that's gets you right) and everyone is hollering and being so ridiculous. I manage a few dances before I have to get out of there. When you can't speak to each other and that moment of unclarity comes nothing could be more awkward. So I'm off!
I'm barely biking two more minutes and I hear "happy Khmer New Year!" and all these guys just hanging out eating and drinking shots of rice wine are just beckoning for me to come over. Option A) finish my island tour and be a lame ass never knowing what it's all about. Or Option B) show them how it's done. Clearly I go with the later. So there I am sitting with a bunch of dudes, only one speaks English but is more than happy to translate for everyone, and the songs are starting and the rice wine is just flowing non stop. I think I impressed them.
I finally got to partake in the tradition of the New Year that I've been dying for and that's the Talcum powder all over the face and hair and arms, you name it. Since they all wanted a go at me, let's just say I don't have to baby powder my hair for a least a month after this fiasco, oh it burns! But it keeps everyone in good spirits as I offer to get us more wine and the English speaking gentleman literally has to be carried into bed. Out of control! So I'm sitting around with the younger boys now, about my age, broken English, everyone is drunk...my kind of scene...and I'm stopped dead.
They had been eating BBQ all afternoon, and as good as it looked I'm so thankful I'm a vegetarian. I managed to have a nonstop supply of mango when I looked to my left, on the grill I saw (mom close your eyes) a dog head! I didn't know what to do, I was literally paralyzed by fright. I mean this dog was cute, like wishbone, and there was his head charred to all hell with it's tail in it's mouth. I kid you not they took that and ate it too, then I'm sure they did some weird offering with the head. Ugh. I'm sorry, but I had to let it out. I didn't know whether to run, or cry, or Kris Morrow (throw up) all over the place. Single handily (that is officially the funniest word ever, handily.) the worst experience of my life and I've had KFC for Christmas. I'm still not recovering from either, why did you change your macaroni salad recipe? Why?
Shortly after that I managed to bike my sorry ass back to the start line to walk three Km in the dark to the home stay. At least that was a great experience overall. They were very accommodating to my vegetarian needs and I got a nice piece of floor to crash on for a couple hours before the damn roosters starting going off like they'd never seen the sun before. All in the name of supporting a community!
Fun Fact: rice wine will end your life
My first accident
Made it four months! Walking up to the island it is lined with boards so the motors can transport to and from the boat. Of course the boards aren't secured in any way so as the person in front of me steps on, it pops up just enough for me to ran my right big door directly into it. Of course I don't have a first aid kit and I'm not looking until I get to the top of the hill. I finally get to stop, there is blood everywhere and my toe is pulsating, ahhhhhh! Just kidding only a little blood, but I did manage to split my toenail clear off at the halfway mark. I'm managing to get bandaged up and I look like I have a gout and I'm thanking my lucky stars for the clean break. This should heal nicely. Just to cheer up my day, on of the other guys who was with me when it happened says "you know how hard you've travelled by how many toenails you have" I quickly reach for my Swiss Army knife and try prying off more toenails...I guess nine and a half will do.
Fun Fact: it takes about six months for a nail to grow back
Fun Fact: it takes about six months for a nail to grow back
Yes! I would like Hepatitis with my ice
ice is made in factories here so it is claimed to be clean and drinkable. However, the transport and the means of cubing it has me questioning how safe the ice really is. Usually transported on moto's in blocks it's rarely covered and sits on the dirty metal part of the bike. Then it is thrown onto a surface that has no doubt cut raw meet, has had gasoline dumped on it and probably seen a birth of a child or two. Next stop they use a saw to cut it down. What has this saw been used for in the past, where did those rust and other questionable spots come from, and how many animals legs has it severed through?
Fun fact: still alive and kicking!
Fun fact: still alive and kicking!
I got what I wanted...
Not the way I wanted it though. So I'm reading my book at the guesthouse, waiting for my bus to Stung Treng, and I hear "hellooooo!" and this very well put together woman is standing before me holding this adorable baby girl in the most ridiculously cute frilly dress and matching bonnet I've ever seen. Like the sort of crap my mother used to dress me in before I could vocalize that I'd rather wear my brothers hand me down adidas soccer shorts. So I smile and say hello, and baby chat with the little one and next thing I know she sits this baby one my lap. Wide eyed, she just stares at me, seems in good spirits. Next thing I know she says "goodbyyyyye!" and disappears! Holy shit! I take it back, I take it back, I don't want a Cambodian baby, well, at least not a girl. Of course the baby, loosing sight of her mother, looses her shit and starts bawling, oh lawd, save me! Luckily, her father, or who I'm assuming was her father since she immediately stopped crying after seeing him, wondered in and took her off my hands. That was a little to close to comfort.
Fun fact: I may have given someone's child away today.
Fun fact: I may have given someone's child away today.
Kraaaaaaaatie!
The night I spent in Kratie, once again described as a lovely French era architecture town, as they all are. Was more of a post apocalyptic war zone in a lovely French era architecture town. Like I mentioned it was Khmer New Year. This celebrates to end of harvest and the coming of the wet season. There is no midnight kiss but there are beautiful displays of fresh fruit and drink and definitely some partying going on...somewhere. as everything is shut down from 3 to 9 days. It's all very bizarre when you are normally bombarded with people.
Picture abandoned streets, garbage littered absolutely everywhere, stray dogs looking for any edible remains. The only sound you hear are cats fighting, screaming, in the distance, and only every second streetlight works. All doors are heavily gated and chained and there isn't a soul in sight. Happy New Year indeed.
Fun fact: I met the most fantastic gay man who ran a cafe called Red Sun Falling. His counterpart? A fierce looking, clearly spoiled cat (if David Bowie was a cat this would be it. I also think he actually is one) named none other then Lazy Gaga. Points for creativity for sure.
Picture abandoned streets, garbage littered absolutely everywhere, stray dogs looking for any edible remains. The only sound you hear are cats fighting, screaming, in the distance, and only every second streetlight works. All doors are heavily gated and chained and there isn't a soul in sight. Happy New Year indeed.
Fun fact: I met the most fantastic gay man who ran a cafe called Red Sun Falling. His counterpart? A fierce looking, clearly spoiled cat (if David Bowie was a cat this would be it. I also think he actually is one) named none other then Lazy Gaga. Points for creativity for sure.
The Wa Wa Daddy Dolphins
Actually called Irrawaddy dolphins, have been renamed by yours truly. A spectacular 15 km bike ride to Kampi through the Cambodian countryside bustling with locals for the Khmer New Year took me to the site of these few fresh water mammals still inhabiting the Mekong. Roughly six of them played around the boat, coming up for air frequently and splashing around. A little odd looking but very friendly, I'd like to show you a photo but I'm currently in a fight with slow shutter Simon (my camera). Since my camera refused to capture these creatures while above water I took some fabulous photos of myself.
I had read that it was a two dollar fee to enter the park (for conservation) And another two fifty or so for the boat, but it ended up being nine for everything, Lonely Planet, I spit on you. Now I don't mind contributing my money to something worthwhile as I've mentioned, and I'm all about the animals but I wonder what sort of conservation I was paying into. The only thing I noticed was potentially getting all the cigarette butts that my boat driver was constantly tossing into the river out. Ugh, what a piss off. Or maybe it's all the locals who bathe with Pantene Pro-V in the water. Say it with me "biodegradable soap" good god. Anyway I'm not going to get on about that, I get it. The money is mainly to help surrounding communities provide for themselves so they don't have to fish or set up nets hurting the dolphins, unintentionally of course.
On my way back to town I got my hands on some kralong, sticky rice with coconut and bean steamed inside a bamboo shoot, and gluttonously devoured it before the ants good. Still following me.
Fun fact: perhaps I'm just pissed I didn't grow up bathing with dolphins.
I had read that it was a two dollar fee to enter the park (for conservation) And another two fifty or so for the boat, but it ended up being nine for everything, Lonely Planet, I spit on you. Now I don't mind contributing my money to something worthwhile as I've mentioned, and I'm all about the animals but I wonder what sort of conservation I was paying into. The only thing I noticed was potentially getting all the cigarette butts that my boat driver was constantly tossing into the river out. Ugh, what a piss off. Or maybe it's all the locals who bathe with Pantene Pro-V in the water. Say it with me "biodegradable soap" good god. Anyway I'm not going to get on about that, I get it. The money is mainly to help surrounding communities provide for themselves so they don't have to fish or set up nets hurting the dolphins, unintentionally of course.
On my way back to town I got my hands on some kralong, sticky rice with coconut and bean steamed inside a bamboo shoot, and gluttonously devoured it before the ants good. Still following me.
Fun fact: perhaps I'm just pissed I didn't grow up bathing with dolphins.
Saturday, 14 April 2012
I got schooled at pool...
By a four year old! Other than that, I read, I slept, I ate. Wo could ask for more? But in the evening I took on a concert and talk put on by the founder of the children's hospitals in Cambodia, Dr. Beat Richner. What a fantastic man! I'm including website on his history but I'll fill you in on what I learned tonight.
Every Saturday evening he plays the cello and gives a presentation on the ongoing battle to keep the children of Cambodia alive and well. He does this, simply for donation. He also goes back to Switzerland twice a year to do more concerts and lectures, again raising money since 90% of the funding for his hospitals is from donations alone.
The medical attention the children receive is free thanks to him and his staff of 2400 Khmer people. On average 400 children a day are brought in to the hospitals, 100 of which have to go to ICU. An average visit (between 2-7 days) can cost roughly $240 and since the average family generates $0.50 a day every little bit helps.
He firmly believes children are the future and you can hear the passion in his voice. The hospitals deliver an average of 50 babies a day but on top of that Tuberculosis is a major problem here and can lead to perminate disability so the treatment never stops and they give the money to the families so they are able to make it to their appointments. No child goes unseen or not properly medicated. A huge part of the problem is the medication you can access here on your own has a 80% chance of being illegit...more problems. Dengue and Japanese Encephalitis are also on the rise so they perform hundreds of vaccinations a day. both can lead to disability if not fatality.
I left feeling drained and all I did was lend an ear for a couple hours. The passion that has driven this man for decades is very apparent in his hair (he looks like Dr. Steve Brule). But I saw faith in humanity once more seeing people willing to overcome any obstacles for the greater good. Acts of selflessness should never go unmentioned so I felt the need to out a little info out there as I'm sure my measly donation did not do much, but at least I could feel confident with this one that it will end up in the right hands.
Fun fact: if you got a second, gives thanks for your health.
http://www.beatocello.com/Assets/richner_history.html
Every Saturday evening he plays the cello and gives a presentation on the ongoing battle to keep the children of Cambodia alive and well. He does this, simply for donation. He also goes back to Switzerland twice a year to do more concerts and lectures, again raising money since 90% of the funding for his hospitals is from donations alone.
The medical attention the children receive is free thanks to him and his staff of 2400 Khmer people. On average 400 children a day are brought in to the hospitals, 100 of which have to go to ICU. An average visit (between 2-7 days) can cost roughly $240 and since the average family generates $0.50 a day every little bit helps.
He firmly believes children are the future and you can hear the passion in his voice. The hospitals deliver an average of 50 babies a day but on top of that Tuberculosis is a major problem here and can lead to perminate disability so the treatment never stops and they give the money to the families so they are able to make it to their appointments. No child goes unseen or not properly medicated. A huge part of the problem is the medication you can access here on your own has a 80% chance of being illegit...more problems. Dengue and Japanese Encephalitis are also on the rise so they perform hundreds of vaccinations a day. both can lead to disability if not fatality.
I left feeling drained and all I did was lend an ear for a couple hours. The passion that has driven this man for decades is very apparent in his hair (he looks like Dr. Steve Brule). But I saw faith in humanity once more seeing people willing to overcome any obstacles for the greater good. Acts of selflessness should never go unmentioned so I felt the need to out a little info out there as I'm sure my measly donation did not do much, but at least I could feel confident with this one that it will end up in the right hands.
Fun fact: if you got a second, gives thanks for your health.
http://www.beatocello.com/Assets/richner_history.html
Friday, 13 April 2012
Oops! I did it again...
Or so I thought. So here I am in a panic because it's Khmer New Year and I'm being told everything, including buses shut down for at least three days. That leaves me limited for some wilderness exploring in Kratie and I have one memory come to mind...
It's Easter in Costa Rica. My partner at the time and I need to make about a four hour journey to San Jose to make it home Easter holiday...who wanted to come home at time?! Never mind. Needless to say we ended up taking a $90 cab ride, I thought the driver said $19 and couldn't believe my good fortune. Nope! so there we are...the middle of Heredia, not enough money in our pockets because the bank is closed and being cornered by a pissed off cabby, no doubt. Luckily, friends came and bailed us out and all was well.
So here I am feeling very much in the same situation. But I'm thinking there's got to be a way. Luckily, after asking around for a while I find the buses are running, a little more costly, but I can make it with plenty of time for some outdoor adventures along the Mekong River. Buddha, you got my back, and I get to rub your belly. I also get a couple days to do absolutely nothing, because I've been doing so much, not! But the actual downtime of reading or watching CNN or catching up on emails is the best part of travel. Everyone out here does it more often then you think. It's funny to see people do all the things you think they left home because, sometimes a change of scenery is all you need.
Fun Fact: Asia's best kept secret...the bum gun.
It took me a while, at first I felt violated but now I think I will keep a super soaker in my bag when I'm back in the Western World.
It's Easter in Costa Rica. My partner at the time and I need to make about a four hour journey to San Jose to make it home Easter holiday...who wanted to come home at time?! Never mind. Needless to say we ended up taking a $90 cab ride, I thought the driver said $19 and couldn't believe my good fortune. Nope! so there we are...the middle of Heredia, not enough money in our pockets because the bank is closed and being cornered by a pissed off cabby, no doubt. Luckily, friends came and bailed us out and all was well.
So here I am feeling very much in the same situation. But I'm thinking there's got to be a way. Luckily, after asking around for a while I find the buses are running, a little more costly, but I can make it with plenty of time for some outdoor adventures along the Mekong River. Buddha, you got my back, and I get to rub your belly. I also get a couple days to do absolutely nothing, because I've been doing so much, not! But the actual downtime of reading or watching CNN or catching up on emails is the best part of travel. Everyone out here does it more often then you think. It's funny to see people do all the things you think they left home because, sometimes a change of scenery is all you need.
Fun Fact: Asia's best kept secret...the bum gun.
It took me a while, at first I felt violated but now I think I will keep a super soaker in my bag when I'm back in the Western World.
The Liquid Outlet
So I must admit, I'm patient, have a high tolerance for stupidity and scammers, can deal with a language barrier, constant hawkers and getting lost. But some days I just want to scream. Once again, how do you find an outlet for all your frustration out here? I got it...
Fun fact: gin & tonic! They taste as bitchy as I feel!
Fun fact: gin & tonic! They taste as bitchy as I feel!
Wednesday, 11 April 2012
Foot massaaaaaaage!
You guessed it... $1
Ok, get a grip Cambodia, you can charge more, trust me. But I do appreciate it big time!
Tonight I got a foot massage, of course I appropriately picked out the cutest gay boy I could find and saddled up for a little reflexology (doesn't even compare to your skills, Charlotte!). So the massage itself was definitely only worth a dollar but the conversation was priceless. By the end there must have been six Cambodians all surrounding me asking my name, which appearently is Bread, about my tattoos, and what I do, and so full of excitement just to sit around and chat with someone. Massage places are also a dime a dozen out here so they just flock to you.
The part that got me though was this boy, who was 19 and had five months left of high school, had to leave his family in Battambang because he couldn't get an education there. So two years behind, going to school all morning, working ten hours a day (yup, for a buck) as well to try and get the money together so he can go to university and get a marketing degree was blowing my mind. He wasn't sad or angry or anything. It was just life, I can't believe his strength. But the kicker he got me at was "they call me Angry Bird, and I have angry boss, he's Chinese" and I just lost it! The equivalent to a Greek I guess, yikes. And of course when we were done the wife of angry boss came to collect the money. I made sure to slip him some extra cash when she wasn't looking. Could you imagine making $30 a month?
Fun fact: you can get a haircut and color for roughly $5 here, I'm in the wrong business.
Ok, get a grip Cambodia, you can charge more, trust me. But I do appreciate it big time!
Tonight I got a foot massage, of course I appropriately picked out the cutest gay boy I could find and saddled up for a little reflexology (doesn't even compare to your skills, Charlotte!). So the massage itself was definitely only worth a dollar but the conversation was priceless. By the end there must have been six Cambodians all surrounding me asking my name, which appearently is Bread, about my tattoos, and what I do, and so full of excitement just to sit around and chat with someone. Massage places are also a dime a dozen out here so they just flock to you.
The part that got me though was this boy, who was 19 and had five months left of high school, had to leave his family in Battambang because he couldn't get an education there. So two years behind, going to school all morning, working ten hours a day (yup, for a buck) as well to try and get the money together so he can go to university and get a marketing degree was blowing my mind. He wasn't sad or angry or anything. It was just life, I can't believe his strength. But the kicker he got me at was "they call me Angry Bird, and I have angry boss, he's Chinese" and I just lost it! The equivalent to a Greek I guess, yikes. And of course when we were done the wife of angry boss came to collect the money. I made sure to slip him some extra cash when she wasn't looking. Could you imagine making $30 a month?
Fun fact: you can get a haircut and color for roughly $5 here, I'm in the wrong business.
Siem Reap
This place is the bomb! The shopping is unreal and crazy cheap I managed 4 pairs of exceptionally beautiful (silver? If I'm lucky) earrings for $20 dollars. I've also managed some pants, shirts, scarves, hammock, you name it for under $40. Aside from my backpack now being over the weight limit for the plane, and that i own more scarves then clothes, we got a deal! I can already picture myself wearing the most insane outfit ever on every plane ride. Hammer pants, scarves in my hair, around my neck, as a top, oh lawd give me strength to stop shopping.
It's so easy to navigate yourself around as well with many cheap and delicious Khmer food stalls all lit up a night, this place never stops.
Another thing that doesn't stop is ants. Those little jerks are as bad as the sand, I opened my toothbrush case one day and thought I was in the movie The Craft, when she is plagued with bugs. Literally covered, but hey, if you can't beat em, eat em. I put one in my curry tonight for good measure.
I managed another day of biking like crazy and caught Angkor Wat at sunrise. Brilliant! Until this baby pig came running through the crowds of people and suddenly no one cared about the sunrise anymore! I had a coffee with Justing Beiber, (best coffee I've ever had in my life, and the locals are smart to give themselves pop icon names so you remember them...there were 2 Lady Gaga's...that was a tough one) and made my way to Ta Prohm (tomb raider was filmed here). Definitely my favorite of all the temples so far, it's being reconstructed currently in several spots but you can still make your way around to get some fantastic shots of trees growing from the ruins and find your way through tiny, rubble filled, corridors that host signs saying "do not enter" which doesn't seem to matter.
I can't even put into words how magnificent these temples and ruins are. Even more so, what a great job they are doing restoring them and the knowledge the locals have. Some have only been open to the public for a few years now, so I feel exceptionally blessed. It does shock me however, how anxious thousands of people a day are to tear through all these places when they look like they will crumble on top of you at any moment. Present company included. I decided to go under a pilar being held up by a stick. Common sense I tell ya.
Fun fact: Pub Street. Wow. (mini Freemont street) this place has given me bush baby eyes.
It's so easy to navigate yourself around as well with many cheap and delicious Khmer food stalls all lit up a night, this place never stops.
Another thing that doesn't stop is ants. Those little jerks are as bad as the sand, I opened my toothbrush case one day and thought I was in the movie The Craft, when she is plagued with bugs. Literally covered, but hey, if you can't beat em, eat em. I put one in my curry tonight for good measure.
I managed another day of biking like crazy and caught Angkor Wat at sunrise. Brilliant! Until this baby pig came running through the crowds of people and suddenly no one cared about the sunrise anymore! I had a coffee with Justing Beiber, (best coffee I've ever had in my life, and the locals are smart to give themselves pop icon names so you remember them...there were 2 Lady Gaga's...that was a tough one) and made my way to Ta Prohm (tomb raider was filmed here). Definitely my favorite of all the temples so far, it's being reconstructed currently in several spots but you can still make your way around to get some fantastic shots of trees growing from the ruins and find your way through tiny, rubble filled, corridors that host signs saying "do not enter" which doesn't seem to matter.
I can't even put into words how magnificent these temples and ruins are. Even more so, what a great job they are doing restoring them and the knowledge the locals have. Some have only been open to the public for a few years now, so I feel exceptionally blessed. It does shock me however, how anxious thousands of people a day are to tear through all these places when they look like they will crumble on top of you at any moment. Present company included. I decided to go under a pilar being held up by a stick. Common sense I tell ya.
Fun fact: Pub Street. Wow. (mini Freemont street) this place has given me bush baby eyes.
Monday, 9 April 2012
Temple running - how'd they do that?!
Angkor what's that smell? ... Urine.
I Spent my first day out of three biking at least 30 km around the Cambodian countryside to see the glory of Angkor Wat, making my way to Angkor Thom to see Bayon (the architecture is astonishing), Ta Keo, and several other temples and ancient ruins along the way. The perfect day, minus my butt feels like it's the day after frosh. I've got two more days on my ticket to jam packing as many more temples as possible. Luckily a good cluster of them are close together as I'm refusing the tuk tuk. I'll spare you the history lesson on this one as Angkor Wat is a wonder of the world so I trust you all know what it is. Check out some photos when you get a chance anyway, it truly is amazing.
Fun fact:Angkor Wat began in the early 12th century and continued for about thirty-seven years
I Spent my first day out of three biking at least 30 km around the Cambodian countryside to see the glory of Angkor Wat, making my way to Angkor Thom to see Bayon (the architecture is astonishing), Ta Keo, and several other temples and ancient ruins along the way. The perfect day, minus my butt feels like it's the day after frosh. I've got two more days on my ticket to jam packing as many more temples as possible. Luckily a good cluster of them are close together as I'm refusing the tuk tuk. I'll spare you the history lesson on this one as Angkor Wat is a wonder of the world so I trust you all know what it is. Check out some photos when you get a chance anyway, it truly is amazing.
Fun fact:Angkor Wat began in the early 12th century and continued for about thirty-seven years
The storm
When I was eight I had a friend named Wendy Lou, who's parents were rarely around so we were free to eat an overwhelming amount of candy, jump on the couch, and play games unsuitable for our wild imaginations. One of which was called Nightmare. A board game played to a VHS tape of a severe storm that only worsened at it approached the two hour mark. Even worse was every now and then the gatekeeper would appear, also appearing worse as the game went on, and make who evers turn it was pee their pants. This game was terrifying. And I was rudely reminded of it the first night on the island.
It came in hard and fast. The wind picked up to an unreadable speed, water came pouring down and I heard the loudest crack of thunder ever. I love thunderstorms but I can easily admit this absolutely terrified me. I was always the kid who ran to the kitchen window at the first rumble of thunder in the middle of the night, just to find dad had already beaten me there, boo. It was all too close and the lightning that blasted just behind the tree was enough to make me feel very uneasy considering my hut for the night was made of grass. OMG, what to do? We all huddled together in the bar trying to find places to stay dry since everything leaks, after several failed attempts I made a mad dash to my hut. The storm went on for hours, I feel like I have a little better understanding for how devastating mother nature can be even though I'm sure this was a typical storm for the locals. being that close to the ocean however only makes it scarier. Wow, I'm still shaking. A prairie thunderstorm has nothing on this.
Fun Fact: it's not even rainy season...I'm scurred.
It came in hard and fast. The wind picked up to an unreadable speed, water came pouring down and I heard the loudest crack of thunder ever. I love thunderstorms but I can easily admit this absolutely terrified me. I was always the kid who ran to the kitchen window at the first rumble of thunder in the middle of the night, just to find dad had already beaten me there, boo. It was all too close and the lightning that blasted just behind the tree was enough to make me feel very uneasy considering my hut for the night was made of grass. OMG, what to do? We all huddled together in the bar trying to find places to stay dry since everything leaks, after several failed attempts I made a mad dash to my hut. The storm went on for hours, I feel like I have a little better understanding for how devastating mother nature can be even though I'm sure this was a typical storm for the locals. being that close to the ocean however only makes it scarier. Wow, I'm still shaking. A prairie thunderstorm has nothing on this.
Fun Fact: it's not even rainy season...I'm scurred.
Bamboo Island
A secluded island with only one place to stay, the people who work and occupy this piece of paradise have given it a family feel. No hum of electricity, no Internet, solar powered bamboo huts, generators at night that rarely do the job, you can't even charge anything out here,(a lot of time is spend by candle light) no everyday luxury... absolute peace. I hope you all participated in Earth hour! Living this simply is such a gift to experience...for a few days. God I'm spoiled. But when you have the opportunity to lay on the beach and succumb to all your senses you realize how detached civilization makes you.
Although there are a handful of other people here you always feel you have the island to yourself. The sun shines for you, and when you open your ears you hear the waves crashing against the shoreline, the birds calling to each other, the hum of bugs, the wind in the trees, laughter in the distance...when was the last time you heard more than one thing at a time? Parents of two or more children need not answer.
There are two beaches on the island that can be reached by a bug infested, trek through the jungle. Needless to say I keep my eyes on the ground and hightailed it screaming because there was a centipede every step. Yuck. Which ever side you bask in the sun's glory you will be in the presence of the most turquoise blue waters you've ever imagined. Think blue Kool-Aid, but don't drink it. The brown sugar stretches of sand are dotted with blue and yellow bungalows and the palm trees stretch high over the beach, granting shade.
It seems as though I've taken to relating sand to sugar...perhaps because I end up eating a lot of it. Once again sand cannot be escaped and neither can that constantly wet, salty, feeling on your skin and your clothes. Really smelling like a hippie is disgusting.
Fun fact: women are better at identifying smells then men...this explains why they stink.
Although there are a handful of other people here you always feel you have the island to yourself. The sun shines for you, and when you open your ears you hear the waves crashing against the shoreline, the birds calling to each other, the hum of bugs, the wind in the trees, laughter in the distance...when was the last time you heard more than one thing at a time? Parents of two or more children need not answer.
There are two beaches on the island that can be reached by a bug infested, trek through the jungle. Needless to say I keep my eyes on the ground and hightailed it screaming because there was a centipede every step. Yuck. Which ever side you bask in the sun's glory you will be in the presence of the most turquoise blue waters you've ever imagined. Think blue Kool-Aid, but don't drink it. The brown sugar stretches of sand are dotted with blue and yellow bungalows and the palm trees stretch high over the beach, granting shade.
It seems as though I've taken to relating sand to sugar...perhaps because I end up eating a lot of it. Once again sand cannot be escaped and neither can that constantly wet, salty, feeling on your skin and your clothes. Really smelling like a hippie is disgusting.
Fun fact: women are better at identifying smells then men...this explains why they stink.
Friday, 6 April 2012
Sihanoukville
I have the Cambodian Chickenpox. Black flies are the devil. Send help.
So nice to be back at the beach, a week away nearly put me into a bout of depression worse then when Will&Grace went off the air. I pulled into the main hub of it all, Seredipity, to a lively and welcoming beach town. You can take a lovely walk down Occheutal to Otres beach, a draft beer crawl of about four kilometers and nestle yourself in the beautiful gulf of Thailand, the water is remarkable.
After a solid day of trekking and too much sun I parked myself under an umbrella to spend the sunset being terrorized by hawkers. The children, once again, got to me. Would you pay a dollar for a mango in Canada? I sure as hell hope not! however, I gladly forked over a dollar to the gayest little boy I could find as he promised to sing me bad romance as he sliced up that delicious nectar of heaven. His name after all, was Lady Gaga.
Next up, a little boy, maybe 3 or 4 found his way onto my lap...ugh. He was playing with my little plastic monkey I have acquired on my trip and sitting all cuddled up to me so loving and calm. On that note I have a project for you. It's called "Raise money so Britt can have a Cambodian baby and escape Cody's turkey Baster idea" fund. I NEED one of these little one and they need your oral hygiene help! Always said I never wanted kids but...
Fun Fact: you will constantly be approached by, unfortunately, limbless individuals, asking for money. These are victims of some of the untouched land mines than are still present around the country. You can't give everyone a dollar so I've taken to pulling out a piece of paper, writing down Heather Mills info and letting them on their way...she can help you! Suck on those rain boots, Mills.
So nice to be back at the beach, a week away nearly put me into a bout of depression worse then when Will&Grace went off the air. I pulled into the main hub of it all, Seredipity, to a lively and welcoming beach town. You can take a lovely walk down Occheutal to Otres beach, a draft beer crawl of about four kilometers and nestle yourself in the beautiful gulf of Thailand, the water is remarkable.
After a solid day of trekking and too much sun I parked myself under an umbrella to spend the sunset being terrorized by hawkers. The children, once again, got to me. Would you pay a dollar for a mango in Canada? I sure as hell hope not! however, I gladly forked over a dollar to the gayest little boy I could find as he promised to sing me bad romance as he sliced up that delicious nectar of heaven. His name after all, was Lady Gaga.
Next up, a little boy, maybe 3 or 4 found his way onto my lap...ugh. He was playing with my little plastic monkey I have acquired on my trip and sitting all cuddled up to me so loving and calm. On that note I have a project for you. It's called "Raise money so Britt can have a Cambodian baby and escape Cody's turkey Baster idea" fund. I NEED one of these little one and they need your oral hygiene help! Always said I never wanted kids but...
Fun Fact: you will constantly be approached by, unfortunately, limbless individuals, asking for money. These are victims of some of the untouched land mines than are still present around the country. You can't give everyone a dollar so I've taken to pulling out a piece of paper, writing down Heather Mills info and letting them on their way...she can help you! Suck on those rain boots, Mills.
Lego Land!
My time in Phnom Penh was full of craziness, education, sunset activities, and Animal Planet (subscribe now).
Craziness - visiting Psar O Russei. Take any China Town and times it by infinite. Like any market jam packed with textiles, fruits, veggies, meats and seafood (how fresh is it really? I can see the flies, oh and it's a hundred degrees out) nuts, legumes (still not sure what that is...Mr. peanut? The guy with the monicle?) you name it. You can even get your hair did! However, they act like they've never seen a white person before, very uncomfortable...que Eminem. So I make silly decision like going to buy several dollars worth of what I think are peanuts, and while she's not looking, pop one in my mouth...not a peanut. So I got all awkward and ran away. I did hit the jackpot in the fresh fruit isle though, yum!
Education - taking in as much if the history and culture as you can is so important. Cooking classes are offered everywhere, although I think I'll wait until Vietnam, but there is a very unfair and unfortunate history in Cambodia that still lingers in the air above the giant smile and hello's of the wonderful Khmer people who inhabit this glorious country.
In 1975 the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot with radical Marxist ideas, implemented one of the most radical and brutal restructuring of a society ever at attempted. This "leader" is right up there with Hitler. It's goal was to transform Cambodia - renamed Democratic Kampuchea - into a giant peasant-dominated agrarian cooperative. Within days the sick, elderly, weak, etc were imprisoned and forced to slave the countryside 12 to 15 hours a day, death was inevitable. Intellectuals were systematically wiped out (having glasses or speaking a foreign language was reason enough to be killed). The advent of Khmer Rouge was proclaimed year Zero. In just shy of four years, before the Khmer Ruge was brought to an end by the Vietnamese, over 1.7 million people have been estimated to have perished at the hands of Pol Pot and his followers.
Tuol Sleng Museum - a high school taken over and transformed classrooms into torture chambers, renamed S-21. At the height of activity over 100 prisoners were killed a day. Kept chained to beds, submerged in water,hung upside down until unconscious, beaten in every way imaginable. In 1979 only 7 prisoners survived when the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh. The only way to survive was to have a skill of painting or photography as the leaders were meticulous in keeping records for each prisoner who passed through (photos, statements, etc.)
Killing Fields of Choeung Ek - the majority of the 17,000 prisoners of S-21 were executed just 14 km Southwest of the capital (as well as all over the country). It's hard to imagine such a beautiful orchard surrounded by rice paddy's and flowered waters turned into a massive burial ground. An audio tour is available and as you go site to site shivers run through your body as you hear the events that took place while stepping on fragments on bone and teeth to this day. Much of the land was dug out and people would stand before the gaping holes, before being bludgeoned to death and left and piles. Music played loudly over the speakers to drown out the sounds of the tortured and there was a grave for everyone, including the children, which we can now leave an offering at to rest their souls. In final there is a memorial stupa, containing over 8000 skulls of victims to being a little peace to the unrest.
I hope that didn't bring you down too much, I left out a lot of what I was informed but had to give you some education as well. It was a bit of a traumatic day, merely decades ago when my parents were tripping on hallucinogens and putting flowers in their hair is was taking place. But I have so much appreciation for even being able to visit and share the smiles of the people.
Sunset activities - Now to end the day what could be better then a riverfront walk? OH I know! A drop in aerobics class, these people have absolutely no timing or coordination (mom, I think you could teach Zumba out here) but everyone just jumps on in! Either prepared in little track outfits or creeping up in Jean shorts and platform sandals. I watched the display for at least an hour before getting a happy pizza, playing rock paper scissors with children for bracelets (cheaters!) and finding a 40 ounce of Jameson for $13.00. Happy happy joy joy.
Fun Fact: not really, but... The UN allowed the Khmer Rouge to occupy the Cambodian seat at the UN general Assembly until 1991. The murderers represent there victims for 12 years.
Craziness - visiting Psar O Russei. Take any China Town and times it by infinite. Like any market jam packed with textiles, fruits, veggies, meats and seafood (how fresh is it really? I can see the flies, oh and it's a hundred degrees out) nuts, legumes (still not sure what that is...Mr. peanut? The guy with the monicle?) you name it. You can even get your hair did! However, they act like they've never seen a white person before, very uncomfortable...que Eminem. So I make silly decision like going to buy several dollars worth of what I think are peanuts, and while she's not looking, pop one in my mouth...not a peanut. So I got all awkward and ran away. I did hit the jackpot in the fresh fruit isle though, yum!
Education - taking in as much if the history and culture as you can is so important. Cooking classes are offered everywhere, although I think I'll wait until Vietnam, but there is a very unfair and unfortunate history in Cambodia that still lingers in the air above the giant smile and hello's of the wonderful Khmer people who inhabit this glorious country.
In 1975 the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot with radical Marxist ideas, implemented one of the most radical and brutal restructuring of a society ever at attempted. This "leader" is right up there with Hitler. It's goal was to transform Cambodia - renamed Democratic Kampuchea - into a giant peasant-dominated agrarian cooperative. Within days the sick, elderly, weak, etc were imprisoned and forced to slave the countryside 12 to 15 hours a day, death was inevitable. Intellectuals were systematically wiped out (having glasses or speaking a foreign language was reason enough to be killed). The advent of Khmer Rouge was proclaimed year Zero. In just shy of four years, before the Khmer Ruge was brought to an end by the Vietnamese, over 1.7 million people have been estimated to have perished at the hands of Pol Pot and his followers.
Tuol Sleng Museum - a high school taken over and transformed classrooms into torture chambers, renamed S-21. At the height of activity over 100 prisoners were killed a day. Kept chained to beds, submerged in water,hung upside down until unconscious, beaten in every way imaginable. In 1979 only 7 prisoners survived when the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh. The only way to survive was to have a skill of painting or photography as the leaders were meticulous in keeping records for each prisoner who passed through (photos, statements, etc.)
Killing Fields of Choeung Ek - the majority of the 17,000 prisoners of S-21 were executed just 14 km Southwest of the capital (as well as all over the country). It's hard to imagine such a beautiful orchard surrounded by rice paddy's and flowered waters turned into a massive burial ground. An audio tour is available and as you go site to site shivers run through your body as you hear the events that took place while stepping on fragments on bone and teeth to this day. Much of the land was dug out and people would stand before the gaping holes, before being bludgeoned to death and left and piles. Music played loudly over the speakers to drown out the sounds of the tortured and there was a grave for everyone, including the children, which we can now leave an offering at to rest their souls. In final there is a memorial stupa, containing over 8000 skulls of victims to being a little peace to the unrest.
I hope that didn't bring you down too much, I left out a lot of what I was informed but had to give you some education as well. It was a bit of a traumatic day, merely decades ago when my parents were tripping on hallucinogens and putting flowers in their hair is was taking place. But I have so much appreciation for even being able to visit and share the smiles of the people.
Sunset activities - Now to end the day what could be better then a riverfront walk? OH I know! A drop in aerobics class, these people have absolutely no timing or coordination (mom, I think you could teach Zumba out here) but everyone just jumps on in! Either prepared in little track outfits or creeping up in Jean shorts and platform sandals. I watched the display for at least an hour before getting a happy pizza, playing rock paper scissors with children for bracelets (cheaters!) and finding a 40 ounce of Jameson for $13.00. Happy happy joy joy.
Fun Fact: not really, but... The UN allowed the Khmer Rouge to occupy the Cambodian seat at the UN general Assembly until 1991. The murderers represent there victims for 12 years.
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